I parked in a frighteningly please-don't-hurt-me dark parking garage and felt my way out to sunshine, only to find several empty parking lots right on the water a block away. Lesson learned. Plenty of parking.
The walk along the waterfront is swankier than I expected. Several expensive condos above nice restaurants--I got my share of watching ladies sunning out on their decks with their lap dogs fidgeting over all the pedestrian traffic below.
I love that one of the most prominent pieces of art in Halifax is dedicated to drinking.
|"looks on with concern"--we've all been there.|
|The chocolate samples...|
|I don't think there was a need that wasn't met.|
After that, it was time to hit the streets.
|What a cute tugboat.|
Yikes. When the tugboat got creepy, I headed away from the waterfront. I have been wanting to go here for a long time.
|They had their first burial the day after they arrived.|
|And the award for prettiest sad tombstone goes to . . .|
|Kind of hard to read, but can we just pause here for a second and zoom in?|
|They lost SIX babies.|
A young woman was sitting by a monument by the entrance to the cemetery. She had approached me earlier to let me know she could answer questions or give a tour if I was interested. "Just browsing!" I said cheerfully at first. Now I went back to her--"They're all babies. This is so sad. Why? Living conditions?"
"It's mostly mothers and babies, yeah," she said. "A lot of women died in childbirth." She explained that, as a port city, Halifax got every imaginable disease. Aside from that, the sewage situation was deplorable and even though there were 20 (twenty!) doctors in this first colony, they just weren't able to help. The first hospital was built across the street from this cemetery, which was probably more for convenience than anything else. I asked her about doctor training, and she said they were all trained in Scotland at that time but it was a rather dark time for medicine. And there were several apothecaries, but training for that profession...?
This young woman was a wealth of knowledge. I would have stayed longer just to listen to her talk, but I would have seemed weird after a while. So, you know, if you're in the area, stop at the sad cemetery for some good chit-chat.
|I would just like to point out that this 18th c. church has an open mind. So what the hell is wrong with half of 20th c. America?|
|Seriously, this is a café. No, I didn't enter.|
I'll have you know, incidentally, that I was mistaken for a native three times. Though I don't know if that's a good sign or a bad sign, frankly.
Like I mentioned yesterday, It's Pride Week(s) in Halifax. Ten days. There was a lot of supportive signage (my favorite being the tea shop that stated, "We brew both ways"), flags, couples, etc. And while I think it should be Pride Week every week, it made me happy to see a city open its arms. This sign outside the library stopped me for a sec. I would love to attend the James Baldwin dialogue. Guessing that won't work out, but it's in the back of my mind.
Halifax Public Gardens...
|Is that an almost-duck-size Titanic? I'm not sure how I feel about that.|
Despite my sister in law's skepticism regarding the possibility of warmth anywhere north of Virginia, it was damn hot in Halifax. And all the walking around in the sun had me spent after five hours. So I headed back to the inn and sat out on my deck for a few hours of blissful silence. Just birds singing, stupid guinea hens, views of the bay, and sunshine.
Today I pack up and start to head west. Tonight is a "free" night--no destination. We'll see where I land. My next legit reservation starts tomorrow. Cheers!